Absolutely the Best (so far)

Chela's Tacos

5231 Broadway (in Alamo Heights, south of Austin Highway)

 Every time I pass a certain taquería on Hildebrand, I'm reminded that in the recent past, two national culinary authorities* proclaimed it the source of The Best Tacos in America. As I've written before, I don't even consider it the best tacos on that street.

 Still true. Those authorities may know food in general, but they sure don't know Tex-Mex tacos.

I missed it, twice.

 And now I have to add a further caveat: the best tacos, the absolute best tacos, in San Antonio (and, therefore, the United States), that I've found so far, aren't on Hildebrand at all, but on Broadway, at a place called Chela's. It's tucked into as unprepossessing a strip-center as the upscale enclave of Alamo Heights can muster, with parking out front for maybe a dozen fashionable European sedans and SUVs, with more spaces in the back. (The restaurant's web site mentions another location, but refers to it only as "St Mary's," with no address. It may be a food truck on The Strip, or maybe it's some kind of facility at the university of that name.)

 Chela's takes seriously the mantra of fresh ingredients, and it produces results. The machacado tacos I had on my most recent visit, like every time I've been there, were a splendidly balanced blend of eggs, vegetables, and beef. The flavour had a smoothness to it that is hard to describe as anything other than buttery. The tortillas had exceptional integrity -- so often an issue -- and held together all the way to the end of the meal. The coffee was self-serve, with free refills; it's brewed a little more toward the acidic end of the spectrum than I like, but not so much that it needs a dose of salt. (This, from someone who prefers Community Coffee, the Louisiana brand that my go-to taquería on Hildebrand serves.)

 I rarely get over to Broadway these days, and even more rarely during breakfast-taco hours, so I consider the accidental discovery of this place a few months ago to be one of the great good things in my life since the Bush '41 administration. Honestly, if it were within walking distance of my house, I'd be there just about every morning, with a plate of deshebrada machacado tacos in front of me.

* Specifically, Bon Appétit magazine, and that guy from Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives on some foodie TV channel.